Experiences

Train Ride to Machu Picchu

Passengers board the Vistadome train departing from Ollantaytambo station
Passengers board the Vistadome train departing from Ollantaytambo station

After a restful night and amazing breakfast at the El Albergue Hotel, you step out the hotel door onto the boarding platform for the train that will take you to Machu Picchu. To board for the train, you need to exit the station and get in line outside the gate to be let in again with ticket validated. You head for the shiny blue Perurail train looking for car C. In a few hours you will be standing on top of Machu Picchu. Its going to be a good day.

A blue train waits at Ollantaytambo station.
A blue train waits at Ollantaytambo station.

Looking for for your car, you realize they aren’t in any particular order, C is after G in this alphabet. Presenting your ticket, heaving yourself and your bag up the steep steps, you step onto the train, stow your bag then look for your seat. You don’t get the window seat you wanted, but it doesn’t matter since you can see everything from inside this Vistadome train, which is practically all windows. As the last passengers settle in the train begins to roll out of the station and the missing occupant of the window seat appears and asks if you want to switch. You thank him, slide over and fix your gaze out the window.

The Urubamba River flows between tall mountains seen from the train to Machu Picchu.
The Urubamba River flows between tall mountains of the Andes.

The tracks follow the curves of the Urubamba River as it winds down into the Andes mountains. Contrary to your intuition, you realize the river is heading into the mountains and Machu Picchu is downhill. This water will end up in Atlantic Ocean rather then the much closer Pacific. Its dry season so the water is at its low point. It must look amazing during the rainy season.

The bridge at the start of the Inca Trail
The bridge at the start of the Inca Trail

There are two ways you can get to Machu Picchu, you can take the train or you can walk. You actually take the train part of the way, then get off and walk. Today your train does not stop to let anyone off. As it speeds by this bridge marking the entrance to the Inca Trail and you see people with huge packs starting up the step hill, you wonder what the heck is wrong with them.

China Saqra, a masked female devil character, performs on the train.
A masked female devil character performs on the train.

Later in the journey a masked figure appears suddenly on the train, a rather alarming China Saqra who dances up and down the aisle before selecting a young man to get up and dance with her. You are glad it is not you. After the dancing its time to sell alpaca sweaters. Its an interesting mix of localized Catholicism and fashion merchandising, but you don’t like sweaters.

Standing in line for the bus to the top of Machu Picchu
Standing in line for the bus to the top of Machu Picchu

After your train pulls into the station at Aguas Calientes there is no time to look around. You exit the gate and find a woman with your name written on a sign. After sending your bag off in a cart to your hotel, she rushes you out of the station and across the street, then onto the end of a line that stretches up the sidewalk. This is the bus line to Machu Picchu, and your entry ticket is two hours from now. You can see the shiny green buses up the street loading and unloading, it won’t be long.

Riding a sleek modern bus on the twisting road up to Machu Picchu.
Riding a bus on the twisting road up to Machu Picchu

The bus is very nice. You are the last one on and make your way to an empty window seat and squeeze yourself in. The bus gets underway and after a few more peeks at the Urubamba river, the road turns upward and begins a series of switchbacks which go up about a thousand feet in a short distance. You can also walk if you don’t want to pay for the bus.

As the road goes up, it becomes narrower and looser and the view gets increasingly dramatic. The only traffic is other buses, and there is very little room for the ones coming down to pass, but they do at alarmingly high speed. Inevitably you think about going over the edge. Your heart is racing, but it isn’t a sense of danger. It’s because in a few minutes you are going to be at Machu Picchu.

When I arrived at Machu Picchu, it looked as if there might be dinosaurs there.
It looked as if there might be dinosaurs there.

The bus rolls to a stop. You patiently wait to unload as you are the last person off. As you look around at the scene, the tropical vegetation, dramatic mountains and zoo-like visitor’s center make you think of Jurassic Park. It would be a good setting for dinosaurs.

Your heart is really racing now. The reality of your location is setting in, a place you have dreamed about, one of the most unique places in the world and you are finally here. Three planes, two vans, a train and a bus and you have finally reached Machu Picchu. Almost reached. Checking your watch you realize you have another hour before your entrance time. You take another look around then grab a conveniently located scoop of mango gelato for your wait.

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