My Perfect Peru Photo Itinerary

For most people there is really only one path to Machu Picchu. You go to Lima, then Cusco, then you end up on a train to Machu Picchu. Or you can walk, and some people do, but this is not for those people. As usual, I was looking for a trip of about a week or less. I found a tour I liked from Inca Expert Travel. It was almost perfect, except as a photographer I wanted to visit Machu Picchu twice, under different lighting conditions, and in case one day had bad weather. But I also didn’t want to miss anything else. So they rearranged some things, and after some back and forth the result is this itinerary. Six days from Lima to Cusco to Machu Picchu and back. It worked beautifully. It was the most amazing trip of my life.

Machu Picchu is the best part, of course, but there are many other amazing things to see in Peru. Cusco is beautiful and fun. Then a progression of amazing places and experiences in the Sacred Valley builds up all the way to Machu Picchu. One caution, this is a really fast itinerary. You stay in a different hotel every night. You walk a lot, including up and down uneven steps and rocky trails. But the hotels are all very restful, and I enjoyed every minute. Here’s the itinerary:

Day 1 – Fly to Lima, Peru

It will probably take you all day to get to Lima and out of the airport, and you will have to stay overnight before flying to Cusco the next day. Wyndham Costa del Sol is the best choice because it is right across the street from the terminal, in the airport parking lot. Get your free Pisco Sour and have a good sleep.

The Lima airport parking lot at night with its sodium lighting, fog and hectic atmosphere made for an interesting shot.

Day 2 – Arrive in Cusco

You need to be at the domestic terminal at Lima at least two hours ahead. Its crowded and busy. The flight to Cusco is only about an hour and then you’ll head to your hotel by the afternoon. I recommend Casa Andina San Blas, but there are many charming hotels.

You must acclimate to the altitude. At 11,000 ft. and up, Cusco is the highest point of your trip. It’s worse for some people than others. Have a cup of coca tea at your hotel, rest a bit, then take a little walk in the city if you are up to it. Don’t eat a lot. Stay hydrated. I managed two good photo walks around central Cusco, but going up hills was rough. I didn’t feel great that evening and then I couldn’t sleep because of too much coca tea. But Cusco was beautiful and I got some great shots. I felt much better the next day after breakfast and more coca tea.

Both large churches on Plaza de Armas face west so are best in the afternoon. Their positioning could make for a great sunset or sunrise. At night the plaza is literally golden with lights all around in the hills.

Day 3 – Moray, Maras & Ollantaytambo

In the morning, take a full day tour from Cusco through the Sacred Valley on your way to Ollantaytambo. I almost skipped this for my extra day at Machu Picchu, but I’m glad I didn’t. The sites I saw were Moray, Marasal Salt Mine, and the ruins at Ollantaytambo. Each one was more amazing than the one before. It really built up the excitement and anticipation.

In Ollantaytambo there is really no other place you should stay but El Albergue, which is attached to the train station to Machu Picchu where you will depart the next morning. Their restaurant is also the best in town. Wander around Ollantaytambo, its a cute little tourist village surrounded by incredible mountains and ruins.

Moray is a hole in the ground, so times not too early or late are probably best. Marasal is in a narrow valley which is only directly lit around mid-day. There are ruins and mountains all around Ollantaytambo so you can shoot something good there all day. The main temple faces east and the sun sets behind it.

Day 4 – Train to Afternoon Tour of Machu Picchu

Take a morning train from Ollantaytambo for an afternoon ticket to Machu Picchu (tickets are for 1/2 day). Don’t miss breakfast at El Albergue, home of the best pancakes I ever had. No hurry, you are already at the train station.

The train ride and subsequent bus trip up to Machu Picchu are an experience in themselves. I would recommend the PeruRail Vistadome train, but there are a few options. It takes about two hours on the train, then a while in the bus line, then 20 minutes on a twisting scary road before you find yourself at the gates of Machu Picchu. Meet your guide then prepare to have your mind blown.

If you can, stay at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel. It’s not cheap, but it’s fantastic. There are other hotels in all price ranges, and Machu Picchu Pueblo itself is tiny and easy to navigate. (You may see this town referred to as Aguas Calientes, but they prefer using the newer name now.)

Take off your polarizing filter to shoot out the Vistadome window or you will get rainbow swirls from the window coatings. At Machu Picchu, the “front” side is on the east so if you arrive in the afternoon, shoot that side first. You can never catch a sunset on Machu Picchu, last exit is at 5:30.

Day 5 – Morning at Machu Picchu, Return to Cusco

Try to get the earliest 6am ticket for your return to Machu Picchu, and be in the bus line by 5:30. It’s a totally different experience to be doing this as the sun comes up. There will likely be thick fog covering Machu Picchu. On a good day it will burn off in a couple of hours, but I was told it can linger all day. I had good luck and after a bit of wait, then meeting some llamas, I had a most dramatic experience as the fog lifted.

Then it’s time for the train back to Ollantaytambo and ground transport back to Cusco. The train takes a bit longer because it’s uphill, and its a 90 minute drive to Cusco so you will likely be arriving after dark. I stayed at Casa Andina Catedral right next to Plaza de Armas and it worked out great for the next day.

If you can only do Machu Picchu once, do morning. Its worth getting up for. Inkaterra is also full of great shots, they have acres of tropical rain forest, some cliffs, and views of the trains. Back in Cusco you have one more shot a Plaza de Armas at night. It’s the one place I regretted not having a tripod.

Day 6 – Morning Cusco Tour, Flight Home

With a late flight leaving from Lima, you can squeeze in a Cusco morning tour. I couldn’t have fit any of these things in earlier without adding an extra day, but by leaving Cusco at 3pm, there was plenty of time. I saw Saqsaywaman, Q’enco, Qorikancha and the main cathedral in one last whirlwind, and I’m glad I saw them all. Then it’s time to fly back to Lima then home.

Saqsaywaman being a broad spread out ruin has good shots at any time. This is also the best overlook of Cusco, you are right above Plaza de Armas and facing north. Qorikancha has limited photography, the paintings especially are forbidden. To catch the tower from the courtyard in good light would need a morning visit.

If you follow this itinerary or anything else in Peru, don’t try to book it yourself. I usually do, but this was so complicated, so many pickups and dropoffs, local regulations, tickets, etc. I would never attempt it. Tickets to Machu Picchu itself are limited and must be booked well ahead. I do recommend Inca Expert Travel, but above all, if you are thinking about going to Machu Picchu at all, just do it however you can. You will not regret it.

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